Tailorshop

Why do you think repairing clothes is so important??

Simply put, we dont need more stuff. many people live in an over privileged capitalist society that is both aggresive, wasteful and increasingly damaging. A society that pressures us to purchase more than we need and use/wear those items less. Creating a system of persistent hunger for newness. Fast fashion has driven down the price per item, that has both impacted the value of the craft and skilled works that made the item, having an unacceptable impact on the less fortunate people elsewhere, who suffer so we can have another new thing. I passionately believe that repairing, altering and customising existing items is one way of counteracting fast fashion. It's a reconnection with the craft, converging creativity with sustainability.

How do i get my items to you??

You can drop them off to our in store studio located on the second floor of the wonderful Dogfish Menswear or if you live further afield post them to the same address: GÖkotta Tailorshop 6-8 Bedford Street, Norwich,Norfolk, NR2 1AR Mon-Sat: 10am - 6pm Sun: 11am - 4.30pm We also offer a free drop off and collection point at the Sevenwolves menswear store located in Cambridge: 4 Bridge St, Cambridge, CB2 1UA Mon-Sat: 10am - 6pm Sun: 11am - 4.30pm If you are going to post them please ensure you have contacted us beforehand. Please ensure items are thoroughly and freshly laundered before droping off or posting.((Read here for further details))

When should i get my items repaired??

As soon as possible.It’s a good idea to check the condition of your item((s)) every once in a while, especially key areas of stress e.g. seat, crotch, knees, seams and cuffs. Areas of wear can look very beautiful, each imperfection has a story of your daily life, unique to you. However, once these areas of wear start to form holes as the cotton fibres degrade, bring them in immediately.If that’s not possible, wear that item less often until it’s convenient to do so.If you wait until it fully rips (it will) more work will be required, resulting in a more costly repair.

Are my items too damaged to repair??

Most likely not. GÖkotta Tailorshop is a counteraction to the throwaway culture, the rapid use and replace waste cycle and the impact this has to our environment.

consume, discard, consume, discard, consume, discard

We see beauty and unique character in the well worn garments. With continued wear and repair they slowly transform into masterpieces, a part of your personal history.

However, depending on the garments' condition, if we feel our repair methods/application will not sufficiently extend the life of your item we will not undertake the work. We are transparent and fair, we wont accept payment unless we are sure on the longevity.

Feel free to view examples of our work on our ((instagram page))

What type of Repairs do you offer?

Our approach to each repair is customer led. We collaborate to meet the individuals expectations. Depending on the area(s) that requires attention, fabric quality and stretch, i can make suggestions of best approach/application. Our main focus is always longevity of the garment. We dont offer quick/cheap fixes that will not last, there are plently of places you can go to for this type of work. We offer both visible and non-visible mends using a variety of modern and traditional techniques . Non- Visible mends, which we call darning blend repairs, are achieved with the use of an old Japanese industrial darning machine. This enables us to weave and intergrate new thread into the existing fabric, paying particular attention to wear and fade patterns of the garment. We have a large variety of (verging on obsessive) thread shades, sometimes up to 7 shades could be used on one area to achieve the best match for a seamless blend repair. This method means we dont use bulky patches glued or sewn inside the denim, that approach often leads to a bad repair that creates new point of stress to the fabric leading to another visit, for a repair to the same area.
Visible mends are achieved by boro (ぼろ) repairs, in Japanese culture boro refers to the practice of reworking and repairing textiles (often clothes) through piecing, patching and stitching, in order to extend their use. The visable mends i offer are achieved with the use of a hand stich method called Sashiko (little stabs). It's a simple stitch, a humble stitch, one that dates back over 400 years to the Edo period (1603-1868) in Japan, at first the application was purely functional, the need to patch and repair (boro) work garments with layers of thread and off cuts of fabric, that later developed into beautiful masterpieces with continued repairs over decades of wear and repair. The use of this technique in my work is extremely meditative, its a very slow process. It creates uniqueness and embraces the flaws, the beauty of imperfection, with each repair telling a story. In the past Boro was out of necessity, this significant part of Japanese culture inspires us, our approach is to honor that history.

Often we use multiple repair methods on a given garment, almost a mixed media project. We have curated a book of Japanese fabrics and localy sourced fabrics that can be selected from, for your visible repairs.

What is your Process??

Receipt of item((s)) > Free evaluation > Approval and quote ((within 1 week)) > Payment > Completion of work ((within 4 weeks))

Once received a thorough assessment of the garment(s) will take place. Looking at the obvious areas of damage and any areas of concern that may require attention to prevent future damage.Depending on the area(s)that require attention, fabric quality and stretch ((%)),suggestion of best method/application will be made. This process aids in the longevity of the garment ensuring no new or further repair work will be required for some time after. Not every item will be approved. If we feel that none of the methods we provide will sufficiently extend the garment's life we will not proceed.We don’t offer quick fixes that don’t last. Determining factors if declined may include, current condition of fabric, previous repair work done ((not by Gokotta Tailorshop))in such a way that affect the quality and fit of the item indefinitely. Once approved you will receive a quote for the work required ((within 1 week of receipt of items)).Should you accept the work to go ahead you will receive instructions for payment.((see how much will it cost for more detail)) *We offer flexibility where possible, if you require adjustment to your invoice due to cost or change of mind please request before work commence. Completion of work will be within 4 weeks ((maximum)) after payment. Often your items will be finished a lot quicker, as soon as they are ready we will contact you and can be either posted back to you, or ready for collection from our shop at your earliest convenience.

How much will it cost??

Pricing is circumstantial depending on a few varying factors:

The time it takes to complete the work Required resources (Materials, thread, hardwear etc.) Current condition of the item(s) Garment construction and fabric quality Area(s) of damage

All work is completed by one person, your quote is for the time and resources required to deliver the best possible repair, alteration or customisation of your item.

See price list, be aware this is an overview and prices may fluctuate in either direction depending on the factors listed above.

Please note that If your item(s) have many area(s) requiring attention/extreme damage, the quote for the work may excede the original price paid.

Do i have to wash my item(s) before you work on them??

Yes please... We do not work on any garments unless they have been freshly laundered beforehand. There are two key reasons for this polite request:

Hygiene: When you wear your jeans for long periods of time you create the perfect environment for bacteria to grow. Body heat, moisture (salt), skin particles (nutrients) & outside dust and grime. This accumulates overtime and embeds into the weave, causing both odour and eventual breaking down of the cotton fibres. This is one reason why the seat and crotch of the jeans offten gives away first. Check out the page for denim care. When working on your items i use my hands often with the garment close to my face. please be respectful.

Longevity: working with clean fabric aids in a longer lasting repair. Stitching over dirty fabric entraps the bacteria and grime within the layers of weave. Causing a quicker and eventual break down of the new fibres. The new thread will embed itself into the weave much better on cleaner fabric producing a smooth and tidy repair.

What is your turnaround time??

We endeavour to get your item(s) back to you as swiftly as possible. All repairs, alterations, and customisations are completed as a one person operation. It’s important that due time and attention is spent on every item in order to achieve the best results possible, we are meticulous in our approach, this takes time. Turnaround varies depending on current workload, scheduling and size of jobs. In order to set expectations we have a set time of 4 week turnaround. However, most jobs will be completed within a shorter time frame. If you need something completed urgently please contact us, we will do our best to schedule it in. All length alterations dropped into store can be completed same day within opening hours.

What are the main inspirations for GÖkotta Handcraft/Tailorshop?

Within our work we draw inspiration from scandinavian design aesthetics, minimalism, clean lines, and the rich culture of Japanese arts, crafts and ideology. My work output and studio space is an amalgamation of these inspirations. We also find huge inspiration within the local community of Norwich ((our home town)) and its surroundings. We wouldnt be where we are if it was not for the independent scene and collaborative spirit that this special city contains. This city is full of inspiring creatives.

Feedback

i have a cool idea, but it’s not on your list of services??

No problem, we have experience in all manner of repair, alteration and customisation techniques. We love creative projects, the more abstract the idea the better. Just drop into the store or send over an email detailing your requirements and we will get back to you.

I love what you do. i have an item that i am bored of wearing, any suggestions??

Thank you, we love what we do. Our favourite projects are re-engineering and re-designing tired garments. Creativity and desire are the only limits to what's possible. We like to approach each project, customer led. Feel free to get in contact providing a rough idea or example(s) of something you like/find inspiring, this is the perfect basis to collaborate from. please check out our ((instagram)) for inspiration from previous projects.

Handcrafts

Who makes all your goods?

ALL OF OUR GOODS ARE DESIGNED AND MADE IN OUR GÖKOTTA STUDIO/WORKSHOP, BY ONE PERSON. WE ARE IN LOVE WITH THE PROCESS, THE NUMEROUS PHASES THAT GO INTO CRAFTING A BEAUTIFULY FINISHED PRODUCT. WE ARE IMMERSED IN EVERY ELEMENT OF THE DESIGN AND PRODUCTION RESULTING IN A THOUGHTFULly DESIGNed product WITH THE INTENSION OF ENHANCING AND COMPLIMENT YOUR LIFESTYLE AND HOPEFULLY INSPIRING YOU.

Do you make custom/commissioned items?

Yes. Send us an email detailing what you have in mind.

How do i care for my items after purchase?

You need to do very little to nothing. All our items are built to last, using the best quality denims and materials available. Like a good pair of jeans, the more you use and abuse them the better they look. The only advise we would give is to occasionally give your items a good wash ((See Denim care)) for advise.